Me getting down and dirty on the steep first pitch.
Euan after the super powerfull moves on the steep arete at the start of the third pitch.
Yesterday Euan and I went into Coire An Lochain and did The Migrant. The whole coire was in perfect climbing condition, all the rock was well rimed and the turf was frozen. The route followed an amazing line with a very steep and technical first pitch (crux) and a super powerful third pitch. I lead the first and second pitches which took me the best part of three hours, from fighting my way through hard, technical and pumpy climbing and trying to block out the sickening pain of Hot Aches. Euan then went on to lead the third and forth pitches with the best moves I’ve ever done on a winter route being at the start of the third pitch. With some yelps of joy from Euan as he disappeared around the arete at the start of the third pitch I knew I was goining to enjoy seconding the powerfull climbing even though I was pretty tired from leading the previous two pitches. The rest of the route was fairly straight forward, apart from a very run out section on the forth pitch on some very minimal torques. But as dark was closing in we topped out on the summit, tired and hungry but psyched to the max from the amazing days climbing we had just had. The wind picked up a bit on the descent but the weather had been so good all day we wern’t that bothered as we made our way back to the car.
