Yesterday Sarah (my sister) and I did a short day on the Mess of Pottage. We did a route called The Haston Line IV/4, even though it had quite a bit of build up it still had a few tricky mixed steps in the lower half of the route. James and my dad did Hidden Chimney Direct Start and they said it also was a little easier due to the build up but it was still a very enjoyable route.
Today Adam and I headed into Coire an Lochain to try some harder routes. Unfortunetly due to heavy build up on the buttresses we were unable to tick anything hard and we settled for some fun climbing on No.2 buttress. We did a route called Astroturfer, III. There was alot of ice on the route which made for speedy climbing.
Yesterday James, Euan and I did Belhave V/6, on Fiacaill Buttress. It was a really good route with some fairly sustained climbing on the top corner pitch. Unfortunately it was raining on the walk in to the coire and it continued to soak us for the rest of the day. Most of the buttresses have been stripped by the warmer weather and rain but there is still some gully routes to climb and a few steeper routes if you don’t want to be picky. Hopefully the colder weather that is forecast will sort us out with some better conditions for later in the week.
Pics; Top/ Second- Adam leading the First Pitch
3rd- Me seconding the technical first pitch
Bottom- Me leading the steep final corner
Yesterday Adam and I made the most of the amazing weather and good conditions, we headed up into Coire an Lochain. We did ”War and Peace” VII/8 on No.4 buttress. It was a very sustained route with a very bold and technical first pitch, and a super steep and pumpy second pitch with a hard corner to finish. We both enjoyed the route and as it was Adams first route of the season it was a good effort on his behalf.
Pics; Top-Lochain Under snow
Middle- First pitch of Central Crack
Bottom- The Crack (before gravity won)
Out yet again today with James. We went into Lochain and did central crack route, the route was good but the middle section was buried under lots of snow and the crack on the first pitch was chocked with verglass. I wanted to finish up the short route called ”The Crack” but when I got on it i soon realised that it was not a good idea, as it was full of either rotten or bullet hard ice which made climbing and protecting the route quite hard. As I was starting to think that it might not be a good idea to continue when I couldn’t get any gear in the lower section, gravity made the decision for me and I found myself back at the base of the route sitting in the deep powder. The route looked amazing so I will definitely be back for round two when there is less build up. A rest day tomorrow then back out on Thursday and Friday.