Compare and Contrast

Yesterday Adam and I headed up to a very, very snowy Ben Nevis. I have not seen Adam for about 6 months, so it was good to get out with him again, and what better to do but get cranking on some winter routes together!

On my way to calf pump on the first pitch of “The Secret”

Adam has not done much this winter (yet), but as usual he was super psyched to get on anything as long as he was out in the mountains. So we headed for the very well know route “The Secret”.

I was very keen to get on this line asap, so that I could compare it to the route that I put up last Friday. It turned out to be much easier than “To Those Who Wait”, but none the less “The Secret” was an awesome line and one of the best routes I have done on the Ben.

Pitch one of “The Secret”

I led both pitches, Adam thought this would be quicker as he had not done much this winter and we knew the top pitch wasn’t going to be quick because it was very white under a thick layer of rhime and hoar frost, there was also a generous amount of verglass lacing the crack. But none the less Adam put in a sterling effort seconding the line and most of the top pitch in the dusk/dark light. I was very appreciative that he agreed to do this route with me and told him that I now owed him one (big time).

I didn’t think the route was too hard, it was a bit tricky finding the hooks under the blanket of white, but that is always the case in winter! I am now very keen to see how people get on with my new route and to hear what they think of my suggested grade of IX/9.

Cleaning out the verglass on pitch two of “The Secret”

Nearing the end of the difficulties on The Secret

Adam showing good winter skills

Today we opted for the shorter walk in and did a route on the Douglas Boulder. We were going for the route Cutlass, and I think this is what we did. I’m not totally certain that we were on the correct line, but nonetheless Adam put on a good show on the long first pitch with some very insecure climbing and marginal gear, due to the verglass. I then went on to lead the second pitch through a short roof via a very juggy chock stone. This was good fun,  but then came the deep snow and buried hooks for another 90m. We eventually reached the top of the buttress and rapped into the gully below. A quick 200m bum slide through the powder snow and a short trot back to the hut and the days antics were all over.

Me leaving the belay on pitch two

It has been a good couple of days on the Ben, but I am now looking forward to heading out to the Alps on the 15th. Bring on the steep ice and high mountain mixed routes. PSYCHED!!!!!!!!